A 'Recce' of Shillong
We were seated at one of the small eateries overlooking the Noh-Kah-Li-Kai falls and sipping the hot Maggi. Thick clouds had gathered around the horizon and in the immediate outside, the sun was shining much like it shines after a rain, within the clouds. We were wondering, what a pleasant surprise Meghalaya proved to be, and how we should have spent more time.
This trip was the result of crazy planning. We were on a 3 day trip to Shillong, having to spend 4 days in transit. And since touring other parts of Meghalaya wasn’t a possibility, Shillong it was for us – for its cafés and rock music.
This detour towards Cherrapunjee, that I just described, was only an aberration. So much so, that you will see from the photos that hardly there are any photos that speak of the landscape and waterfalls – most of it is foods and flowers. At best, this trip would have been a recce, I had wondered before embarking on it.
But now, when I think and write about it – it was undoubtedly one of the best trips that we, as a family, had. We planned that while going towards Shillong, my wife she and kid will take a flight to Guwahati (wife had some challenges with her leaves), whereas the return will be by car.
The first day I (I was driving solo) reached Cooch Behar where I spent the night at home. My mom had cooked a dinner of Rice, Dal and ‘Boroli’ fish – a fish indigenous to the Torsa river. The next day I started from Cooch Behar around 8 ish. Google map showed two roads towards Guwahati – one way through South Assam and the other one was slightly north. I wasn’t aware of which one to take – and took the road which was in the immediate path – the Southern that passes through Dhubri.
The entire road was two-lane and whereas 80% of the road was good, another 20% was bad to very bad. Nevertheless, with a lunch break near Guwahati, I reached the ‘Eagle Nest Homestay’ at 3.30 PM. But this route was picturesque – tall Sal forests lining up the road, green fields at the place, railway lines passing just beside the road at many places – it was a very nice drive. In the evening, I went out for a stroll and by 6 I was back at the homestay.
The next morning, I woke up, took a bath, settled the bill and left for the airport. Kid and missus were coming!
Now, every motorhead whom I had interacted with, had lavished praise on the Guwahati – Shillong highway – and true to everyone’s word – what a lovely drive it is - smooth, curvy and clean. We had a refreshment break at a Dhaba in Nongpoh and within 3 hours (quick by my driving standards) was in Shillong, where we had booked our stay at Tripura Castle.
A little history here. The Maharaja of Tripura had come to visit Shillong and liked the place so much that he purchased a piece of land and built his residence. Presently, a part of the residence forms the hotel that has three wings – A Heritage Wing, A forest wing and a Valley wing. We had selected the Forest Wing.
We checked into our rooms and went out for a walk in the evening. Found that Dylan’s café (a supposedly well-rated café in Shillong) was along the road which they call the ‘Tripura Castle’ Road. The evening was very chilly and so we headed to the restaurant for dinner and cocktails. Tried something called the ‘Maharaja’s Special’ – don’t remember the exact name here – it was nice. The restaurant was very lively. It seemed to have a soul of its own. A tandoor section where they were making kebabs. An open-air section where people were playing pool. And we took a window seat overlooking a part of Shillong. Lights from the houses – so very beautiful. And the behavior of the staff, professional, yet having a personal touch. We spent around three and a half hours at the restaurant. There are certain things which you can hit off almost instantaneously – this restaurant was one was spot – we knew we had found the place to be.
The next day, after breakfast we went to Cherrapunjee, visiting the Mawkdok view point and the Noh-Kah-Li-Kai falls – the colour of its pool is a ‘seen to be believed’ blue. Thought someday must be there at the pool. When we returned, it was 7 in the evening – Shillong has its share of terrible traffic jams.
The next evening, again, the same place at the same restaurant and cocktails and sizzlers. Lip smacking food. The next day was the wife’s birthday and I some plans to be executed. We planned to go light on travel –a visit to the Shillong peak, Elephant falls and the like. The afternoon, we spent in the Police Bazaar for lunch and shopping where we purchased some bamboo and cane stuff for the folks back home.
After reaching the hotel, we packed all the belongings and it was around 8 we were headed for dinner. There, we had a quiet birthday celebration – again, with the personal touch. I was elated with the arrangements and the missus was clearly surprised. The next morning, the hotel gave us some packed sandwiches and fruits for breakfast and it was a long drive towards our home in Cooch Behar, where we spent the night. This time, I did take the correct road and it was four lane all the way through. And then the next day we reached Kolkata around 10 in the night.
Somehow, Shillong took a piece of our heart away. Felt, it was better than Darj – sans the tea and the Kanchenjunga. What remains next is a proper Meghalaya holiday.