North Bengal Hils Trip - Summer Vacation
May. The month, when the plains of India become a sweltering furnace, cultivation fields get baked and the bitumen on the road surface melts. On the highways one can see the hot air shimmering over the road surface.
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15-May-22: Bagdogra to Delo
Sleep was good.
And after having fortified ourselves with a protein rich breakfast , we were on our way to Delo, through a longer, winding route - one that passes through Sevoke-Gorubathan-Lava. The purpose being manifold: the pine lined stretches near Lava holds a certain scenic charm and it was long since we had been on this road and wanted to see if there were any new developments of interest.
The long detour through Sevoke-Gorubathan cost us a good amount of time. But once in the highlands, traffic was sparse, an odd motorcycle cruising through the hairpins or at times a car coming downhill. Soon after, mists started to rise from the valley, droplets of rain splashed on the windshield, vegetation became greener and the conifer lined stretches made it feel that the summer heat at the sea level is a thing of the past.
Sleep was good.
And after having fortified ourselves with a protein rich breakfast , we were on our way to Delo, through a longer, winding route - one that passes through Sevoke-Gorubathan-Lava. The purpose being manifold: the pine lined stretches near Lava holds a certain scenic charm and it was long since we had been on this road and wanted to see if there were any new developments of interest.
The long detour through Sevoke-Gorubathan cost us a good amount of time. But once in the highlands, traffic was sparse, an odd motorcycle cruising through the hairpins or at times a car coming downhill. Soon after, mists started to rise from the valley, droplets of rain splashed on the windshield, vegetation became greener and the conifer lined stretches made it feel that the summer heat at the sea level is a thing of the past.
After Lava, the weather cleared and revealing through the clouds was the sun, now glistening on the droplet filled leaves that were swaying in the wind. We lost our way somewhere and would have landed in Sikkim had we not asked the military convoy which was probably on its way to the Sikkimese border.
Nevertheless, as we reached Yuru retreat, dark clouds took over yet again – ominous signs of a thunderstorm and as if to echo the signs, the power went off. For the next hour or so, through the glass panes, we could see lightning streaks penetrate deep in the valleys, sometimes illuminating the dense forest lands and from the comforts of the room we could hear the muted gale swaying the trunks of the trees. That night, we had a candle lit dinner with rice and a delicious chicken curry. The power supply was restored quite late – but the experience, reminded us of our long bygone childhood.
16-May-2022 Delo to Darjeeling
For long we had wanted to see the villages of Takdah and Tinchule and hence we took a detour from the Peshok road and after a steep initial climb we could see that we were amidst acres of tea gardens that slanted down till a thread like river appeared and on the other side of river, to the naked eye, what appeared was more tea gardens and forests.
For long we had wanted to see the villages of Takdah and Tinchule and hence we took a detour from the Peshok road and after a steep initial climb we could see that we were amidst acres of tea gardens that slanted down till a thread like river appeared and on the other side of river, to the naked eye, what appeared was more tea gardens and forests.
The sky remained cloudy throughout but as we exited Tinchuley and entered the forests of Takdah, it felt that we had entered into a different realm. Everything was blanketed by thick mist and then droplets of rain appeared on the windshield. Once we rolled down the windows and could hear the shrill pitched cry of insects and cicadas pierce through the ear. Takdah hosts several bungalows dating back to pre-independence and many of those are now hotels. When we exited Takdah and merged with the Peshok road again, we were back to the cloudy skies but minus the mist and welcomed by heavy traffic. We checked into Ramada for the night.
At Darjeeling, life follows a certain pattern. And Glenary’s is part of that pattern. We spent the evening hours digging into sizzlers jacketed in warm clothes, listening to music - an overall vibe that reflects the soul of Darjeeling. We walked back to the hotel in an ever increasing mist. At night, before sleep, I opened the curtains for a glimpse of the town and found that the the lamp posts and hotel lights had turned into a blur, obscured by the mist.
17-May-22 Darjeeling to Chalsa
In the morning the sky resembled a gorgeous blue. We went for a walk along the mall road towards the Governor’s house till the hunger pangs compelled us back to the breakfast table.
After breakfast, we headed down to Chalsa, where we were booked at Sinclairs. The tall pine trees lying in eternal mist, around Lamahatta, which we had missed the previous day, stood like sentinels, as we rolled downhill. Along the Peshok roads we purchased some fresh off the field carrots, radish, cauliflowers – just for the appeal of their freshness.
In the morning the sky resembled a gorgeous blue. We went for a walk along the mall road towards the Governor’s house till the hunger pangs compelled us back to the breakfast table.
After breakfast, we headed down to Chalsa, where we were booked at Sinclairs. The tall pine trees lying in eternal mist, around Lamahatta, which we had missed the previous day, stood like sentinels, as we rolled downhill. Along the Peshok roads we purchased some fresh off the field carrots, radish, cauliflowers – just for the appeal of their freshness.
We reached Sinclairs, Chalsa in the afternoon . In the evening we went to the Murti river bed, exploring the tea gardens around Matelli, saw the tribal population selling ‘hariya’ and watched a beautiful sunset before the darkness of the hour reminded us to return to the confines of our hotel.
We had been to Dooars multiple times and for an overview of the area, you may explore this journal entry: Exploring Chalsa and the Dooars.
We had been to Dooars multiple times and for an overview of the area, you may explore this journal entry: Exploring Chalsa and the Dooars.
18-May-22 Chalsa to Murshidabad
It was raining when we had gone to sleep and it was still raining when we woke up. Added to the rain was the wind, which howled through the trees, depositing bucket loads of water that accumulated on the leaves. The sky thundered, and judging by the dark clouds, it seemed the rain wouldn’t stop anytime soon.
It was raining when we had gone to sleep and it was still raining when we woke up. Added to the rain was the wind, which howled through the trees, depositing bucket loads of water that accumulated on the leaves. The sky thundered, and judging by the dark clouds, it seemed the rain wouldn’t stop anytime soon.
Our plan to leave early and reach Calcutta was hence hamstrung and we started at 11 in the morning. Progress was smooth, yet wary of aquaplaning, till we reached Bagrakote. After which the rain disappeared and road surfaces were dry. The harsh summer sun greeted us hot and bright again – as if to reflect the reality and the mood that the summer vacations were getting over. We lunched at a nondescript Dhaba and further lost time due to the long service times. It was then that we began to ponder over where to stay for the night. After much thought, we booked a room at the Jalchhabi Resort at Murshidabad.
Our progress, impacted by numerous factors, had become very slow. The sun went down near Malda. Nevertheless a continuous drive took us to the outskirts of Behrampur – where we were stuck behind a long queue of trucks. Finally we reached Jalchhabi resort at 10 in the night.
We stepped out on the balcony for a while and in the darkness we could see the ripples created on the river surface as the Ganges idled by. A breeze blew across the river and towards the balcony where we were seated. The calling bell rang, it was the call for dinner. After a satisfying dinner, it was time to sleep.
Our progress, impacted by numerous factors, had become very slow. The sun went down near Malda. Nevertheless a continuous drive took us to the outskirts of Behrampur – where we were stuck behind a long queue of trucks. Finally we reached Jalchhabi resort at 10 in the night.
We stepped out on the balcony for a while and in the darkness we could see the ripples created on the river surface as the Ganges idled by. A breeze blew across the river and towards the balcony where we were seated. The calling bell rang, it was the call for dinner. After a satisfying dinner, it was time to sleep.
19-May-22 Murshidabad to Calcutta
Murshidabad is steeped in history. But for us, it was essentially an unscheduled stopover. The next morning, we tried to make the best possible use of the few hours before departed for Calcutta. The morning sun was blistering hot and we visited the Katra Mosque, Hazarduari Palace and Jahan Kosha Cannon before we finally joined the NH34 and travelled towards Calcutta.
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| The Ganges, as seen from our resort |
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| Jalchhabi Resort |
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| The rear facade of Hazarduari |
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| Mango Orchards of Murshidabad |
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| Katra Mosque |
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| Jahan Kosha Canon |